It’s been an interesting week.
Not too long ago, my husband and I made a trip across the river from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Colonia, Uruguay. We’ve made this trip many times before, usually just for the day (and to renew our visas). But this time, we spent a week or so doing research for a book I want to write.
We stayed with local expats–people from Canada, the UK, France, and the US. These individuals were choosing to live in Uruguay part-time or full-time. Some had discovered Uruguay through online resources and discussions with those who had visited. Others had stumbled upon it on a trip to Buenos Aires and fallen in love with it. Some had felt compelled to move to Uruguay without ever having visited it.
Although there are all kinds of ways to live in Uruguay–and most countries–we were particularly intrigued by those who had moved to Uruguay in order to purchase property and live closer to the land. One couple we stayed with has spent the last 20 years in Manhattan, but bought 50 acres and a 100-year-old farmhouse in Uruguay, where they are happily settling into country life. Keep in mind that these people had never lived on a farm before and knew nothing about gardening or raising animals. They are learning–and loving the process of discovering what it’s like to be so in tune with the seasons, the soil and the sounds of the country.
Despite my city-girl persona of the past three years since moving to Buenos Aires, I felt a remarkable pull toward the countryside. I was raised on a ten-acre piece of land three miles down a gravel road from a small agricultural town in Oregon with a population of 360. I grew up working in fields of all kinds, and my family had a massive garden. My mother was raised Mormon and still followed the two-year-supply-of-food rule, so we had a room in our home dedicated to the storage and display of beautiful glass jars of the fruits and vegetables she canned. But she went way beyond the usual strawberry jam and preserved peaches: she made her own pickles, pickle relish, ketchup, tomato sauce, and sauerkraut. We had a food dryer and always had containers full of dried apples and prunes. We made our own granola and muesli. My grandmother made her own yogurt–back in the sixties!
So, despite becoming a more “modern” American woman these past 30 years–one who shops at supermarkets and turns her yard into a perennial garden and maybe a few herbs, but no vegetables in sight–I’ve been pulled back to the idea of having enough land to grow my own food. Potatoes, onions, carrots, beans, tomatoes, corn. All kinds of herbs. Loads of fruit trees. And yes, some herbs and flowers.
I found a piece of property in Uruguay, about 20 kilometers from the coast. It’s about five miles outside a small town. It has just under five acres–and 18 different fruit trees. It also has a lovely new 3-bedroom farmhouse. And a well.
Having recently moved into a studio apartment in Buenos Aires–after selling our 3-bedroom place once the kids moved out–I have been enjoying the simplicity of one-room living. We have just what fits, just what we need, just what we really love, and nothing else. I like the sense of security that comes from knowing I have just this one room, and that I can lock the door and leave and not worry about it while I am away.
But now, I find myself fantasizing about living in the country. Or rather, I dream about having this wonderful little studio in the city but also having a beautiful piece of land upon which to garden, grow things, and reconnect to the earth. I envision a place that will evolve over the next decade or two to include a lush and beautiful garden, a guest house, an outdoor campfire area….and not much else. Just land. Crickets. Maybe some chickens, a few sheep to keep the grass short. I want to buy my clothes at the feed store–tall galoshes, long underwear, overalls–and keep them there so that when I arrive, I can slip into my country clothes and head outside. I want to drink mate in the morning with a view of the country, and get my hands into the soil every single day.
I never thought this would appeal to me. As a teenager growing up in such a remote area, I swore I would never make my kids live out in the middle of nowhere. Instead, we lived in a small town (a quick walk to Main Street where they could buy ice cream cones or read magazines–or visit their parents, as my husband and I had a small business in the downtown area). Then we lived in the suburbs. I hated the suburbs, but I am so grateful we had that experience. If I hadn’t lived in a subdivision, I wouldn’t have felt compelled to leave the US, and then I would not have discovered what it is like to live in a beach town in Mexico or in a city of 13 million people in Argentina. Or on a farm in Uruguay.
Things keep changing. I keep changing. I am trying to let go of my “nevers” (I should have mastered this by now) and be open to where my heart pulls me–even if that means a piece of property in the middle of nowhere.
I’m not a teenager anymore. My kids have never lived in the country, and they aren’t likely to live on a farm–ever. But I love the idea of having this place for our family to congregate, to share holidays and watch grandchildren playing in the garden. Studio apartment life in the city is exhilarating, but I am longing for a place that inspires more contemplation. Living in the country won’t be simpler than living in a studio apartment–there is more to maintain–but it will provide a perfect balance.
I think. Or, I might find it terribly boring. Who knows?
All I can do is follow my heart. And right now, it’s pulling me to this piece of property which I have not yet seen.
More soon.
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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
We adore isolated country living, so it sounds great to me!
Of course it will be more stuff, more work & more maintenance. Having 2 homes also has it’s downsides ( I lived bi-coastally for years) as often, just what you want is at the other place no matter how many duplicates or how well planned
Too bad that you can’t rent one for a while & test the waters. I like to lean into things, so probably what I would do…especially since world housing & the dollar seem to be on a steady decline pattern.
That way you have a full understanding of all the specific pros and cons & know the area really well before buying & committing more fully.
Just a thought, that might let you have your cake & eat it too!
I don’t think I am much of a “leaner”–the smartest decisions I have ever made are the ones in which I trusted my instincts fully and didn’t let my head (worries, fear) get in the way. My husband and I were together as a couple for only six weeks–then had nine months of painstakingly slow snail mail correspondence. He asked me to marry him the first day we saw each other ten months later. It was the best decision I have ever made.
Well that, and selling everything we owned in 2005 to move abroad. From decision to departure: less than six weeks. Best move ever!
I hear you on the challenges of living in two places, but the farm is only two hours away and because our studio is so small, there just isn’t much there to worry about!
I generally find that when things go super smoothly and quickly–with not a single glitch or obstacle–there’s a reason for it.
I had this idea of buying a farm only ten days ago. Since then, I have found a perfect property for an unbelievably low price, corresponded with the owner directly and connected with several expat neighbors there who have checked things out and assured me it was a steal and a beautiful place. I’m heading over on Tuesday to see it for myself, and if my heart tells me to do so, I plan to buy it on the spot. 
It’s also a great investment in a safe and stable country. I would not buy real estate in the US now. I have never been wrong about real estate, and my heart tells me this is the right place and the right time to buy. If it were a higher price, that would be different, but honestly, it’s so affordable and we need to put some money into something tangible, safe and usable. My head is in on this one, too!